Hot salt or hot sand frying has been used for centuries in Asia as a more affordable, convenient alternative to frying in oil.To fry food in salt, you must use only dry ingredients and a vessel with a high heat capacity, like cast iron or carbon steel.
There’s something magical about watching an ingredient go into a deep
fryer. Hearing the oil sizzle and seeing dough puff or batter turn
golden brown in a matter of seconds is a reminder of how enchanting
cooking can be.
If the transformative, fast-acting process of frying food in oil is
exciting for you too, then there’s an even more visually intriguing
cooking method that will immediately capture your attention: frying in
salt.
When cooking creator Roice Bethel (@roicebethel)
shared a clip of himself cooking chips and popcorn in a pan full of
salt this spring, the video quickly amassed over 15 million views. It’s
satisfying to watch: popcorn kernels are submerged in plain salt, then
seconds later start to puff into the snack you know and love.
Surprised followers chimed in with a myriad of questions — quite a few
of them asked for Bethel to try frying chicken in salt — and one
commenter even mentioned that “I have my culinary degree, and I did not
know you could deep fry in salt.”
This cooking method does work just as it looks in the viral clip, but
it wasn’t invented by Bethel. Instead, frying in salt — or more often,
sand — is a process with historical roots that spans countries and
centuries.
How does hot salt frying work?
When deep frying in oil, the fat surrounding the food is what transfers
heat, cooking the submerged ingredients. In the process of hot salt
frying, you’re simply replacing oil with salt, which can evenly
distribute heat on all sides of the food. Hot sand frying is an
identical technique that relies on the same heat transfer system, but
replaces salt with sand.
Just like you can test the temperature of oil before frying, you’ll
notice that Bethel uses a thermometer to gauge if the salt in his pan is
at a high enough temperature for cooking.
You can only hot salt fry in the same types of vessels used for deep frying in oil. For example, you could hot salt fry in a cast-iron skillet or
carbon steel wok, but you should not use a Teflon-coated nonstick
skillet. The salt gets very hot and can damage an artificial nonstick
surface or burn you if you touch it.
A food-grade, coarse salt is best for this technique — finer seasonings
like table salt will be difficult to sift off the ingredients you cook,
and coarse granules are less likely to absorb moisture. Aside from
that, one home cook explains on Reddit that
“one can use any salt; just let it heat for 15 minutes to let the
volatile compounds evaporate (like iodine). Same goes with sand as
well.”
Most importantly, only completely dry items should be fried in salt.
Any damp ingredient, like chicken or steak, will cause the salt to
stick, resulting in a dish that’s too salty, and the salt will not
effectively make wet ingredients, such as batter, become crispy.
Where does hot salt frying come from?
Although there isn’t much information about hot salt or hot sand frying
online, it’s clear this is a technique that has been around for
hundreds of years and is still used today, especially by street vendors
across several countries in Asia, including Bangladesh, Nepal, China,
and India.
Kurush F. Dalal,
an archaeologist and culinary anthropologist, explains that “sand
frying is what is done all over India… Indians even make popcorn on the
streets this way. It’s commonly used all over Northern India in winters
to roast sweet potatoes. It’s incredibly cost-effective and a very
controllable process.”
Dalal notes that “Traditionally, in most of the world salt was too
precious a commodity to treat so casually,” emphasizing that frying in
sand is what you are far more likely to see in India.
Frying in salt is more budget-friendly than frying in oil, and frying
in sand is less expensive than either option. You can also reuse sand or
salt many more times than you reuse cooking oil, and cleaning up after
cooking with these materials is much simpler.
Fryums — colorful, puffed chips often made from potato starch — are one
of the other ingredients you might see vendors in India frying in sand
or occasionally salt. In China, chestnuts have historically been fried in woks full of sand during winter, and vendors in Bangladesh often toast peanuts in pans of hot, black sand.
If you’re eager to try hot salt or sand frying yourself, I recommend
starting with something many vendors cook with this technique and you
likely already have in your pantry: popcorn.
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